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New Guide Published for Braun Oral-B Triumph v1 Toothbrush Repair

We’ve been hard at work at Ionic Industries and are pleased to announce the latest in our range of toothbrush battery replacement guides, this time for the Braun Oral-B Triumph v1 toothbrush models.

The Triumph models are Braun Oral-B’s most expensive, top-of-the-range toothbrushes so are well worth repairing!

The v1 Triumph models have type numbers 3731, 3738 or 3745 marked on the bottom. If yours is different please see our other toothbrush battery replacement guides.

You can read the full guide to replacing your Triumph v1 battery here. Please leave a comment below if you have any questions or feedback.


106 thoughts on “New Guide Published for Braun Oral-B Triumph v1 Toothbrush Repair

  1. I have a type 3738 and received the replacement battery quickly but had to await solder wick from china before using it. The replacement guide was fantastic and easy to follow, tho bits were a bit fiddly. I found didn’t have the Torx #6 but 99p at the local Maplins fixed that. Its on charge now so all is looking good.

    Many thanks for this website, its great being able to revive an expensive toothbrush for just a tenner – and a great sense of achievement!

    1. Thanks for telling us about your experience with your Triumph toothbrush Martyn, it’s good to hear. Happy brushing!

  2. Thanks for these excellent instructions. I would suggest adding that refitting the top ring can be made easier by first placing it it some hot water for a few minutes to soften it up.

    1. Thanks for the tip Andrew, glad to hear the instructions were useful.

  3. Thanks for the instructions – a quick Google search, using the model number of my wife’s toothbrush, brought me directly to them. Seeing as the instructions were so clear and helpful, I decided to buy the replacement battery from your site (was very well priced and turned up very swiftly!).

    You’re spot on with all the instructions and I found your tip of using an 11mm ring spanner to re-seat the top retaining ring very useful.

    1. It’s great to hear your success story Charles. I’m glad you found the guide useful and it helped you get your wife’s toothbrush repaired and running again with a replacement battery fitted. Thanks for the feedback!

  4. Thanks for these instructions, which I followed today. Some warnings:

    1. I almost gave up at the very first hurdle. Getting that ring off the top is next to impossible. Then I realised that the white plastic of the main body of the toothbrush is actually just a tiny bit squidgy. It’s possible to push a flathead screwdriver down into the body, so as to get under the ring.

    2. If a toothbrush has been used for many years, it will have all manner of muck (e.g. limescale) that has crept into all the cracks that you are now trying to open. Be prepared for things not to just slip open easily. Also be prepared for cleaning.

    3. In particular I found that using a pair of waterpump pliers to squeeze the sides of the toothbrush – carefully, but with enough force to actually, minutely, bend the plastic – I was able to break the “seal” and separate the innards from the case. Without this it would never have come out.

    4. A small flathead screwdriver was also instrumental in reaching down into the case to press in the two white plastic clamps that otherwise would have permanently held the innards in.

    5. Soldering is difficult. You can make a mess and ruin everything.

    6. Bending the metal tabs on the battery appropriately is really fiddly. Sharp scissors worked really well for trimming.

    7. Upgrading from a 42mm to a 49mm is possible, but requires some further consideration. (a) Snipping the spring to a shorter length requires some really sharp cutters with long handles, because the metal it’s made of is tough. I only cut through by putting the cutter in position, then squeezing the cutters closed with the waterpump pliers, i.e. leverage on top of leverage. Which wasn’t safe. (b) You’ll have to carefully work out how to bend the metal tabs on the battery – you won’t be able to just copy the bends on the shorter battery.

    Hope the above is useful!

    1. Thanks for the feedback and tips Virgil!
      Further to number 1, if you stand the brush tip-first in hot tap water (around 60 degrees C) for 5 minutes it will soften up the plastic ring so it is easier to pry off.

    2. Regarding battery upgrade from 42-49mm: I found that trimming the spring wasn’t feasible with my toothbrush because the plastic insulating washers do not allow the spring to fully compress back into the now smaller space. I thought – oh well, screw it, and placed a long piece of electrical tape down the length of the battery to help secure it to the handle. So far so good. Can someone explain the utility of the spring? Seems to me that it simply fills up space, so any means of securing the battery should suffice. Even a wad of cardboard shoved in that space would probably work. Right?

      1. I’m not sure why a spring is used except perhaps to keep the motor and battery securely in place whilst being vibration-proof. If there was no spring then the battery could potentially move around in its holder, wearing away at the plastic and getting looser and looser until it breaks one of its connections.
        If you have a 42mm battery and the spring has a plastic insulator at both ends, you can remove the insulator at the battery end to make space for a 49mm battery. Some Triumph v1 brushes were manufactured with a longer spring and an insulator at only the motor end. This means that generally it is fine for the spring to become ‘live’ and be touching the positive battery terminal. If your spring has been cut, keep the cut end against the motor insulator rather than the battery where the sharp edge could wear through the battery’s insulation. You might need to stretch the cut spring a little if it is loose when fitted. Rob 🙂

  5. A really good guide and even when I used the longer battery 49mm all went well. Now on charge and looking good. Why Braun didn’t make this easy with a normal unsoldered replacement battery is obvious. They will no doubt sell more toothbrushes, but there should be a law against it as there is nothing wrong with the toothbrush.

  6. One other thing… using nail cutting scissors to trip the battery connectors down works best, altho I did start with a pair of normal scissors which worked but was difficult to be accurate with. Nail scissors are small and sharp and do an excellent job. I didn’t worry too much about the bending of the ends correctly. As long as they are isolated from other connections it doesn’t seem to make any difference. I was concerned that the spring metal touches the connector at one end, but that’s how it was initially, and doesn’t seem to be an issue.

    1. Good work, and thanks for the tip Lewis!

  7. Hello, and thank you for the detailed quide. I have changed battery to my older Triumph now 2 times without problems. I now changed battery to type 3762. Everything seemed to go well. However, the battery does not charge. I have managed to charge the battery two times without the cover. In these occasions I found no reason why it suddenly charged without doing anything sensible.

    There is a 0ohm resistance between the coil pads, so the coil should be ok.

    I found some mystical comments from for example EBay replacement battery adds. “Some models are known to have issue with the charging circuit not operating properly after installing a new battery. As a bonus, instruction on solving it is provided free when battery is shipped.”

    Anyone knows what could be the issue?

    1. The Braun Oral-B Type 3762 and its related models (3761 and 3764) seem to have an electronic cut-off for when the battery is getting low on charge and this gets confused when the battery is replaced meaning the brush can almost lock up and refuse to do anything.
      I’ve seen that comment from a U.S. battery vendor about the bonus instructions on solving the problem but I don’t know what their solution is.
      If you manage to find out then let us know! For now however, a combination of running the brush until it stops, charging for a minute, running it down again, then giving it a full charge and running it continuously might help to recalibrate things.

      1. new battery installed easily with wonderful instructions — but won’t take a charge — I am guessing the charger is what was broken in the first place? – ugh, hate to spend $30 for a charger only to find out I am just out of luck

        1. It could be a broken wire from the charging coil to the PCB of the toothbrush. Have a read of our trouble-shooting tips here

  8. Hi,

    I’ve managed to replace the battery and it charges without any problems. However, when I turn it on, nothing moves. I can hear a buzzing sound as if power is transferred to the motor, but it just doesn’t move.

    Has anyone experienced this? I’m suspecting the cause might be related to the latest comment about the brush locking up, but I’m not sure. Have tried to follow the instructions given, but it doesn’t work.

    My model is a type 3738.

    Would be grateful to hear any suggestions on getting this resolved.



    1. Hi Christopher, Does the motor run if the inner workings of the brush are removed from its outer casing? It could be something simple like a piece of debris jamming in the gearbox when it was reassembled.

  9. It does not. The motor gets quite warm though. I’ve given up and bought a new device. But thanks for the instructions anyway:)

    1. You’re welcome. If others have this issue it could be something simple like debris in the gearbox (try turning the toothed gear by hand) or if the motor is getting warm but not running it could be seized.

  10. Hi all,
    Thanks for the comments. Learned some advice before beginning this project. My first soldering project. I’m from Canada, and am looking to use this solder for the job. Will it do?


    1. Hi Shawn, Yes that solder looks fine. You won’t need much so you might have a friend/colleague who can give you a metre length.

  11. Hi,
    Got the top ring off but when I go to unscrew the base it won’t fully unscrew. The base (charger) will turn the bottom of the toothbrush (the centre part underneath it) and eventually it comes a bit out but won’t go any further. It’s like the screw is stuck inside and keeps resetting over the last thread inside. Not sure if sediment has created a seal. Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated. Thabks

    1. Hi Shawn, if the screw is undone and just keeps turning it means it has released and the base cap can now just be levered off. Dry toothpaste might be helping it keep sealed but you should be able to get base open. You can do the screw back up and stand the brush in hot water for 5 minutes before trying again if it seems stuck on firmly. This will soften the plastic.

  12. I’ll give it a try tonight. I’m skeptical though. The base of this thing feels solidly sealed, not even a wobble. I tried pretty hard to pry it open after turning the screw as far as I could and I was breaking a sweat. I can’t image dry toothpaste giving it that kind of seal. I bought this “new” from ebay a few years ago, and the seller shipped it in a cardboard box (not original packaging). I guess “new” may have meant refurbished, and I’m worried the inside may be krazy-glued shut or something. If that is the case is there any other way to open the device?… or am I out of luck?

    1. It’s quite normal for the seal to be firm and I doubt it was opened even if it was sold as “refurbished”. Once the screw is undone as far as it will (it will just keep clicking) just start levering all around the edge of the base with a large-ish screwdriver. You might end up marking the plastic with a screwdriver so you can use something plastic instead if you like.

  13. Thanks for the great instuctions!

    I just replaced my battery in my triumph V1 and I fully charged it before putting it in the brush via an nicore intelligent charger. However the LCD shows “empty” and the brush will not run at all. I know the battery is good as I have tested with a volt-meter) reads 1.486 V and have run other motors off of it so I know it has lots of juice. Any ideas?

    1. Hi Rick, Glad the instructions were helpful! Even though the battery is full I’d suggest putting the brush on charge for at least an hour so that the battery meter knows there is some juice in the battery. Then you should be able to switch it on and let it run down until it is empty. The meter gets confused so you might need to do the charge/discharge cycle a few times before the brush lets you use the battery’s full capacity and the meter sychronises with the battery. Also see our trouble-shooting tips.

  14. Got the base off! Turns out it was ancient gunk creating a extremely strong seal. Now proceeding to solder. Before I do so, I’ll be upgrading to the larger battery size (49mm) for the v1 model. In the tutorial, it mentions resizing the spring (cutting it shorter). Do i still include both plastic ends after resizing or do i remove one end as shown in the tutorial?


    1. Great! If your spring has a spacer at both ends then you could just leave off the spacer at the battery end and you might not have to shorten the spring at all.

  15. Success!

    I Just wanted to follow up on my experience (for those curious about the process).

    First, what a great way to save money! Electric toothbrushes aren’t cheap, so replacing the battery is really a great mini-investment (you can save yourself well over $100 bucks).

    Second, a big thanks to If you follow their guide (and practice great care when soldering), you cannot go wrong (and everything pretty much goes as expected).

    Now for the unexpected:

    The blue plastic ring at the top can be pried off if with a butter knife/flat top screwdriver or something else (a little force is required). You just need to get under it (the area around it is soft and rubbery and you can squeeze a tool into it).

    Don’t underestimate the power of ancient dried gunk (5 yr old toothbrush), it creates a really strong seal between the base and the shaft. I had to use a knife to pry open the base after unscrewing.

    Getting the internals out is annoying. Find something narrow and flat that can be wedged into both sides to release (I used really tiny paperclips). Don’t give up!

    Note: you will need a torx T6 screwdriver. I’m a man of substitutes, and no substitutes will do for the screw you need to remove from the display (not the tiniest allen key or those mini screwdriver sets will work).

    Desoldering/Soldering… challenging but doable… In the end, I got a co-worker to do this for me. Someone with a bit of experience. I don’t regret it. At least watch some youtube videos or something if it’s your first solder DIY. I learned alot by watching. We had to replace the solder tip to get enough heat, and had no luck using a desolder wick. I strongly recommend a desolder pump. There’s not alot of space on the board, so patience and precision are key.

    Now, the battery. I chose to upgrade to the larger 49mm length battery (why not?). It fits perfectly into the slot, but a bit of bending/cutting is required for the foil connectors since they don’t line up exactly with the holes. Not a big problem. What was a problem was the spring. I removed one of the plastic ends to make sure it fit when reinserting. This was a big mistake. If you’re upgrading the battery, don’t even bother with the spring. There are grooves which are perfectly spaced for that battery’s size which hold it in place. Despite this, we inserted the spring anyways (keep in mind it’s a small space) and we somehow made it connect metal to metal with the motor and I guess it started to deliver current because it heated up and began to melt the plastic around the head of the battery. After a moment of little smoke, we immediately removed the spring and things were fine (minus a bit melted plastic around the head of the battery). So forget the spring if you’re upgrading the bat size imho.

    Long story short, I put everything back together, charged the battery for 24 hrs, and it works just like new!

    Good luck!

  16. Thanks for the excellent instructions and assistance. My question involves cleaning. The top end has a ring of black mold where the blue ring was. Can you recommend the best way to clean it – and the surrounding soft rubber of the case – without damaging that rubber? Thanks,

    1. Hi Bruce, I’m not sure about the best way to clean mould off but you could try removing as much as you can with a brush, then wipe it with anti-bacterial wipes. Any staining will be hidden once you reassemble it so bleaching it wouldn’t really be necessary.

  17. Hi. Thanks for the instructions. I have successfully replaced the battery and it is fully charged and working. However, I get a symbol on the LCD display that there is no signal for the smart guide and indeed the smart guide is not linked to the toothbrush. It is functioning (the clock is running and it was linked immediately before I replaced the battery). Any thoughts on a fix? I can’t find my instruction manual and Braun doesn’t seem to offer one on its website. My brush is a 3738. Thanks for any help!

    1. Hi Mark, glad your toothbrush is now repaired and running! To turn on the SmartGuide radio signal for your Triumph v1 (i.e. take it out of flight/hospital mode) hold down both buttons for a few seconds. The little transmitter/radio aerial symbol should disappear, letting your SmartGuide work again.

  18. Got it. Thanks! Works like a charm. Do you know of a source for an instruction manual? By the way, I installed the larger battery and was able to simply compress the existing spring enough to get it in without modification. Mine has only one plastic spacer, which I left, as is. Thanks again for a very helpful website.

    1. You’re welcome! The manual for the Type 3738 is available on Braun’s site here.

  19. I have just replaced the new battery on Triumph Professional Care 9000, followed all of the instructions. I charged the battery to full 100% but when I switch it on, the motor doesn’t turn, it’s just dead silence. The LCD displays correctly with different brushing modes but the motor and brush is not turning. I’m wondering what steps I may have missed and if you can provide some guidance on how to fix this problems. Look forward to any helpful hints and suggestions. Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Alfred, it could be a stray blob or whisker of solder causing a short circuit on the PCB. Also, check that when soldering the new battery to the PCB that any nearby surface-mount components did not get hot and move on the PCB.

  20. Hi,
    I just replaced the battery on Oral B Triumph Professional Care 9000 following all of the instructions. I then tried charging the battery but LCD display only says “Charging” with no bars displayed at all. I left it on the charger for 24 hours and the LCD display still only says “Charging”. There are no bars indication like it was before the battery change. The motor would not turn on and it just remain silence. Any helpful suggestions or hints would really be appreciated.
    Thanks in advance!!

    1. Hi John, have a read through of the troubleshooting suggestions on our customer support page. It is most likely a connection issue with the battery or copper coil wires.

  21. i am considering doing this on my V1 triumph however when i search around for battery replacements some have an offset negative post and some centered. can the v1 circuit board be setup different on different ones or is one or the other always right for this model?



    1. Hi John, the v1 Triumph models (types 3731, 3738 and 3745) always have an offset tag on the negative terminal of the battery. The only variation is the length of the battery. Sometimes the brushes are fitted with a 42mm long battery, sometimes it’s a 49mm long battery. You can open your toothbrush and measure the battery length without doing any desoldering.
      These are our 42mm long offset tag batteries, and these are our 49mm long offset tag batteries.

  22. Extremely clear and well illustrated instructions. A model for all types of instructions. My battery replacement went smoothly.

  23. When I put it together the lowest bar was blinking on the LCD when I put it into the charger, making me think it was charging. Then I tried to use it and it ran very slowly and after a few seconds went totally dead. Nothing on the LCD screen, noting when trying to charge it again… ;(

    I used a desolder sucker (pump) to remove the old tin and thought I was careful. But guess I did create a short somehow. I could feel it being a little bit hot before it died totally but thought it was from charging.

    1. Hi Kent! Check inside the toothbrush handle that the copper wires from the charging coil have not broken. There is a weak point where they are soldered to the PCB.

      1. Great instructional. One hour later and i have a fully working toothbrush again. I slowly sanded down a small allen key with 320 grit water paper to remove the internal screw. it took a while to get it to the correct size, but the whole job still only took 50ish minutes. well worth the effort. I dislike just throwing things away when they can be repaired.

  24. Thanks for the great instruction.
    The battery meter is confused and would shut off after one use. How can we keep it running continuously to drain down the battery? It would shut off after 2 minutes. I tried many cycles of charging for a short time and running it, but didn’t fix the issue.

    1. If it shuts off after 2 minutes then you can put it back on charge for 10 seconds, then leave it running again. However, with the v1 Triumph models they don’t normally shut themselves off until the battery is drained. You might have a problem with the charging circuitry or coil wires so check out our trouble-shooting tips here.

  25. Great instructions. Clear and precise. First time I have decided to do anything like this and pleased I have.
    Trouble now is, the battery is on charge and only the bottom bar is blinking. Is this normal? Any advice appreciated

    1. Glad the guide was helpful Steve! It’s normal for only the bottom bar on the battery charging display to be blinking when it’s first put on charge.

  26. Is there anyway to just take the old tags off the old battery and apply them to the new battery? Instead of bending and soldering on the main board?

    1. The tags are welded to the battery so it would be very difficult to remove them neatly. The tags on our batteries can be trimmed with scissors and are easy to bend, so doing that will give you the neatest and most reliable repair.

  27. Having read through most of the posts, it seems there can be issues with charging the new battery. Is it likely to help if I make sure the old battery is completely discharged before removing it. It should at least be safer, avoiding any potential problems with shorts caused by metal tools in the wrong place!

    1. Yes, good idea Steve. The main issue is that the battery meter gets out of sync. New batteries are partially charged so the meter generally needs to re-sync. See our troubleshooting page for tips on how to achieve this if the meter doesn’t re-sync after a few full charge-discharge cycles.

      1. So far my attempt at battery replacement seems to have gone well. I completely discharged the old battery first, then installed the new one. I discovered it is easy to get the black prongs of the display module in the wrong place relative to the white clips on the main module, then the main module will not clip into place in the case. Once assembled the display showed the animated ‘plug me in’ icon. Charged it for about 22H and so far it has run for about 6 days with 2 users brushing twice per day and no sign of low battery warning. I will discharge fully and give it another 24H charge just to be sure the meter is calibrated. Thanks for providing an easy guide for this process.

  28. Hi I have Triumph professional care Type 3762 5 modes V2. his battery is 1.2 v 1600mA I have changed it for a battery 1.2 v 2000mA and I have worked for two minutes and then one of his transistor is burned. I see the burned transistor but it is very little and I have not the information about it for changing it. can you give me the schema of it for recognizing the informations about changing that the transistor ? thanks

    1. We don’t have any circuit diagrams, schematics or parts lists unfortunately.

  29. Replaced the battery using your instructions and it worked great for a little while. Then got some condensation on the screen so opened it up to dry it out. All looks okay now except the screen now is stuck on choosing the language – I can toggle it to change from English to German to Danish, etc. How do I reset the screen/program to the operations screen so I can use the toothbrush. Each time I push the button it just changed the language instead of starting to operate.

    1. Hi Julie, according to page 5 of the user manual for the Type 3731 (available here) once you have selected the language press the other button (mode button) to move the menu on. This will take you to the timer mode setting so press it again to return to normal brushing mode.

  30. Changed my battery a week ago. Instructions were great, I installed the bigger battery with no problems. I let it charge for 24 hours upon first use I was a little disappointed as it’s isn’t feel any stronger. Let it charge another 12 or so hours and now it is just like new. Thanks

  31. Hi,
    I have the New 42m/m Battery and T6 Torx Star screwdriver: But only the Original Lead Multi-core solder! (Question:), Do l need to Buy Lead FREE solder to complete the Work of Replacing the Battery?
    Which l received from; Ionic Industries in Yesterdays post 16/9/2017.

    Now it has been Many, many years since l was involved in Electronics: Many things have changed. So my reasons for asking about Solder is more to what l should use because of “What is Best at this time.
    I have a Very Good / Quality “Temperature Controllable” Weller Iron, plus, a Good De-soldering pump, so No problems should arise.

    But l do look forward to your reply; just to re-assure me about the Solder?
    When l Finally get to replace the Battery…… The Next day or so, l will post my experience with you.
    Meanwhile, thanks for taking a moment of Time.

    1. Hi David, it looks like you’re all set up for a good repair. As for the leaded/lead-free solder, as long as you remove most of the original solder you can probably use your current solder to make the new connections without any issues.

  32. I’ve got a 3738 with a dead battery. I’ve removed the blue ring and the triangular screw on the bottom, but I’m stuck here:
    “The base of the handle will start to separate off from the main handle.”
    it won’t.
    it seems to be sealed shut and won’t budge even a fraction of a millimeter, no matter what I do short of damaging the plastic. is there a tip like heating it up for the blue ring, to separate the base from the handle?

    1. Yes, tighten the screw back in the bottom. You can then stand the brush in hot water for 5 minutes. This will soften the seal and any dried-on toothpaste from around the seal. Dry the brush with a towel and loosen the screw. You might need to gently pry the base cap off with a blunt screwdriver but it should then come apart okay.

      1. thanks, it worked somehow. there was no toothpaste, just the seal was extra tight. although some water actually got inside despite re-tightening the screw, and the screen and the pcb became a bit wet, but I hope it is not too bad. I’ve ordered the new 49mm battery now.
        maybe next time I should use a hair dryer instead of hot water 🙂

  33. The battery replacement instructions for the V1 are among the most thorough I have ever seen for a repair of this type. Clear, concise, and correct. Well done, and a good example for other sites to follow. Who needs a video!

  34. Good day, I managed to remove the plastic screw from the base, however, the base itself cannot be removed. My Type is 3745, V1

    1. Hi, put the screw back in then stand the handle in hot water for 5 minutes. Dry it off, loosen the screw, and you should be able to pry the whole base off with a blunt screwdriver.

  35. Hi,

    I replaced the battery in my toothbrush according to this guide.the copper wires on the charging coil remained intact, the screen showed a charging indicator when I put it on the base.

    However, the motor is really weak with the new battery. It seems to overheat quickly. The toothbrush gets very warm. Does this sound like a short? Any ideas?

    1. Chris, If the brush is heating up it sounds like there is a short circuit. Desolder one battery terminal from the PCB and check for solder bridges, blobs or whiskers on the PCB. Ensure that the metal spring is insulated from the motor and that the spring hasn’t damaged the insulation on the battery itself.

  36. I found your website completely by (google) chance but it’s a real goldmine of information! Our Triumph V1 was showing signs of battery fatigue, feeble running after full charge, short charge life etc. A replacement brush seemed to be inevitable until we found Ionic.

    We bought 2 batteries and a T6 driver from you, then started work.

    Your replacement guide was well-written, backed up with clear photos. You successfully avoided jargon, providing me with a measure of confidence before I started work. Removal of the base cap and blue ring were harder than expected, even with the 60C heat treatment, due to accumulated material after years of use (yuk!). After that, the job was exactly as described.

    With another new battery in reserve (plus a new T6 driver), I’ve spent a fraction of the cost of a new (discontinued) unit.

    My compliments for your excellent service and clarity!

    1. Thanks Jon! Great to hear about your successful repair and that the guide was useful. Happy brushing!

  37. Thanks for the battery and clear instructions. I now have a rejuvinated Oral-B Triumph V1 with a larger battery and at a tenth of the cost of a new toothbrush. Many Thanks.

  38. The plastic “wrench” on the charger and the plastic hole on the bottom have deformed so they will not engage – I cannot remove the bottom of the toothbrush with the charger. Any suggestions as to how to accomplish this? Thanks!

    1. If the plastic key on the charger is rounded off you can use a T-50 size Torx bit to unscrew the release from the toothbrush. Soften up the seal beforehand by standing the brush in hot water for 5 minutes first.

  39. I changed the battery but doesn’t work!! It gets very hot and the lcd doesn’t work either!! If I disconnect the battery and I put the toothbrush to charge the lcd works and indicates like is charging! might something is burned?

    1. It sounds like either the battery was connected in reverse (+/-) or there is a short-circuit causing the battery to drain at high current. Check the PCB for stray solder blobs causing a short-circuit.

  40. I just replaced my battery on V1 model 3738 and completed a full charge cycle and used the Toothbrush once without any issues and placed back in charging cradle. Couple of hours later I walk into the bathroom and hear the toothbrush is running, tried to turning if off multiple time without any luck.

    Battery discharged after about 45 minutes of running and I then placed it back in the charging cradle but now it will not charge. Took it apart again to check connections on charging coil to PCB and battery solder connections, all seem good.

    I took it apart and cleaned the on/off switch alcohol swabs and then tried jumping a fully charged Ni-MH battery to the battery solder contacts, LCD came on and stayed on for a while but toothbrush still won’t run or will not charge. Also checked to make sure the gears were not jammed and they freely turn.

    Is there anything else I can check or try to determine if the PCB is bad before I proceed with desoldering and replacing with a new battery?

    1. It sounds like possible water ingress. Disconnect the battery and let it all dry out somewhere warm for 24 hours. Reassemble it, check for short circuits and check the copper charging coil wires for broken connections. The toothbrush should then both acknowledge being charged and run normally when switched on/off.

  41. Amazing website please keep up the good work! You have definitely invested time and effort and you deserve the credit!

  42. Hi,

    I replaced the battery at the end of February 2018 with the Top Quality 49mm x 17mm Braun Battery with Offset Tag – Varta.

    Work flawless until 3 weeks ago.

    The led windows in blinking on the first block and not go further. As soon I remove the tootbrush from the charging stand, nothing appear on the led windows.

    Any idea what could be the problem?

    Thank you

    1. Hi, it sounds like a broken connection inside the toothbrush. Take a look at points 3 and 4 on our customer support page here.

  43. Hi,
    I am looking for a replacement charger for 3738, charger got thrown out by mistake !!
    Any ideas. Not available through Braun customer service.
    Thank you

    1. Have a look at our article about Type 3731 chargers that will fit your toothbrush here. There is a link for buying a replacement charger.

  44. Hi, thanks for the concise instructions for the battery replacement of the model 3738 V1 oral b toothbrush. I’ve replaced the battery and the display is completely blank and the unit will not turn on. I set it on the charger for 24 hours but still have a blank screen. I have reviewed your troubleshooting section and disassembled, visually inspected and tested the connections, everything looks good. Should I be able to turn on the unit when out of the case? Thank you in advance for any support that you provide.

    1. Hi John, yes you should be able to switch on the brush or charge it briefly without the outer casing in place. If the screen is blank, even when on charge, then there might be dirt trapped between the gold pads on the PCB and the screen’s edge connector.

      1. I’m having the same problem as John, above. Showing 1.4 volts while charging. Display blank. Getting 3 volts from boost circuit. Cleaned connection with alcohol and a swab. Checked and cleaned under display for grit. Motor runs if we bypass transistor. What frequency should the crystal run at?

        1. I’m not sure what frequency the microcontroller runs at. If bridging the output transistor runs the motor then perhaps the momentary power switch is faulty or a surface mount component has moved off its pad.

  45. Couldn’t have done it without your guide!

  46. I’m trying to unscrew the base but my charger is now not feasible and I brought a torx t50 piece which seems to be slightly small and just turns freely in the base. Any input?

    1. It sounds like your T-50 bit might be slightly under-sized. You can try wrapping tape round and round over the six points until it is a snug fit in the base.

  47. This is the second time I have replaced the battery – they usually last about 7 years – and have found your instructions very clear and comprehensive and easy to follow for a competent DIYer. Eventually the motor or a component will fail but this replacement has saved me a lot of money. Thanks

  48. What is the coil at the top of the toothbrush for? I damaged mine removing the top ring and I cannot tell if it is just two wires coiled together or a coil loop (connected). Easy to fix, but cannot work out whether the wires are connected or not? Any idea what this is for and if this is one single connected wire in a coil?

    1. It’s not clear what that top coil of wire is for – either for a system for detecting never-sold, chipped brush heads, or it’s for detecting the shaft speed. It’s a single length of coated wire wound into a coil with the 2 free ends connected to the circuitry. You could leave it disconnected and see if that affects the running of your Triumph at all.

      1. Thanks for the swift reply. I thought it may have something to do with pressure sensing or even a bluetooth antenna. now I know what it physically is (a single coil of wire) I can now replace it. thanks.

  49. When I pried the seal off I damaged it on my Triump V1 Is there any place to purchase a new seal

    1. Do you mean the solid plastic ring around the shaft?

  50. In your otherwise outstanding video, it failed to prevent me from losing track of which was the spent and which was the replacement battery….I didn’t read all of the comments, so if this point has been raised and dealt with above, sorry about that.

    1. You can email a photo of the two batteries to the email address at the bottom of this page (or on our contact page).

  51. I am unable to reset the battery after it being replaced. It runs 2-3 times than dies and flashes empty. Read all the comments with no success. Any suggestions?
    Please help…

      1. Will try. Thanks.

  52. The directions, pictures and video for the Brawn 3738 battery replacement were flawless. Thanks.

  53. I have a type 1, 3738 10+ years old, with a 49mm battery. Battery and 6mm screwdriver bought from your website, followed your online guide and replaced battery with no problems. Various hints (eg replacing battery at an angle, negative end first) were very useful.

    Some might find a magnifying glass or similar useful for the finer aspects.

    Thanks to all involved in the online guide

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